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Got a question? Start here to find an answer.
If you still need help, give us a call at (888) 282-5233 or send
us email
A2 vs. High Carbon?
Which HOCK blade do I need for my Block Plane?
Why are some HOCK Blades made in France?
Why are some blades black (dark gray) and some
shiny?
How should I sharpen my blade?
Chisels?
Custom work?
Blade for my shoulder plane?
Hand scrapers?
Blades for my Jointer/Planer/etc?
Which blade should I use to make a (smoother,
jack, whatever) woody?
Why do you answer your own phone?
Custom blades in A2?
Why are HOCK blades shaped like that?
Do you sell other plane parts?
Can I come visit?
A2 vs. High Carbon?
Our High Carbon Tool Steel is the finest-grained tool steel available
and the finer the grain the sharper the edge. A2 is a newer alloy
that will hold its edge longer; the alloying elements that increase
edge retention form large, tough carbide particles during heat treatment.
It’s a little harder to sharpen and bit more expensive but
if edge life is paramount, you can’t go wrong with A2. But
if ultimate sharpness and ease of sharpening are more important,
high carbon steel will allow you the sharpest edge possible.
Which HOCK blade do I need for
my Block Plane?
We offer four different block plane blades in two different alloys.
The first determinant is the blade width, either 1 3/8” or
1 5/8”. The next is the width of the slot in the center of
the blade. It will be either about 7/16” wide or about 5/8”
wide. Available in our High Carbon Steel (HC) or Cryogenically Treated
A2 Tool Steel. HERE'S A PHOTO!
1-3/8” wide Blade:
7/16” slot: BL138 (HC) or BLA138 (A2)
5/8” slot: BW138 (HC) or BWA138 (A2)
1-5/8” wide Blade:
7/16” slot: BL162 (HC) or BLA162 (A2)
5/8” slot: BW162 (HC) or BWA162 (A2)
Why are some HOCK Blades made in
France?
Way back during the Clinton administration, we ran out of room
in our small shop in the backyard. Rather than expanding our capacity
here, I started shopping for job shops that could make our blades,
to my exact specifications -- alloy, heat-treat, finish -- as well
(or even, possibly, better) than we can ourselves. After a considerable
search, I was contacted by a small, family-owned factory in France
that makes industrial cutters and surgical blades. We established
an excellent relationship that we enjoy to this day. They make a
large portion of our production with the balance still being made
right here in the backyard. Their quality is as good and (don't
tell Larry I said this) sometimes better than what we can do here
and I'm proud to have my name on these blades.
Why are some blades black (dark gray)
and some shiny?
When we were making all of our blades here in our small backyard
shop, they were all gray/black because we didn't grind them flat
after heat treating. The gray/black is a very thin coating of iron
oxide that forms during heat treatment. Several years ago, we started
having some of our blades made by others (don't worry, the alloy
and hardness specifications are the same); large shops that cut
the blades with lasers and wet-grind them to thickness after heat
treating. The thicknessing makes them nice and flat and shiny-bright.
We still make many of our products right here in the backyard shop
(still mostly by Larry, even after all these years) and they're
the ones now that are gray/black with our debossed logo.
How should I sharpen my blade?
I’ve put sharpening notes here
and your blade will come wrapped in same (unless you buy it at one
of our beloved retailers. Then, the package will have the most condensed
sharpening instructions ever written.) Better yet, buy a copy of
my sharpening book: The Perfect Edge
will be available in January 2010!
Chisels?
Maybe someday. Check back once in a while...
Custom work?
Send a sketch for a quote. It needn’t be a formal drawing
but it must have all the pertinent dimensions clearly indicated.
Be sure to include a phone number, etc. Be patient. And for the
time being, we can only do custom work in High Carbon Tool Steel.
(A2 batch size requirements prevent custom work in A2. Sorry.)
Blade for my shoulder plane?
With so many different ones out there, we make these as custom
items and will need a sketch to be sure to make the right one for
your plane.
Hand scrapers?
Nope. Only blades for the scraper planes.
Blades for my Jointer/Planer/etc?
The steels we use won’t stand the heat generated by power
tools. This includes lathe tools (which really are power tools –
think about it.) Hardness retention while at high temperature is
why there are high-speed steels but we don’t need that quality
so why pay more for what we don’t need?
What blade should I use to make a
(smoother, jack, whatever) woody?
I’ve always found all those designations to be a bit vague.
Think about what you’ll be using your wooden plane for and
use your considerable intellectual gifts to decide how wide the
blade should be. Smoothing? Wider, like 2” (PI200). Jointing?
Narrower, like 1-1/2” (PI150). All around handy plane? Our
most popular blade is the 1-3/4” blade (PI175).
Why do you answer your own phone?
Because it rings. (And I’m often the only one here. We’re
a much smaller operation than people realize.)
Custom blades in A2?
For the time being, we can only do custom work in High Carbon Tool
Steel. A2 batch size requirements prevent custom work in A2. Sorry.
Why are HOCK blades shaped like that?
When we first started making small batches of blades for the Krenov
shop, we just rounded the top corners off so they wouldn’t
be sharp. As demand grew, we just kept on doing it the same way
and it became a trademark. If you want the top to be trapezoidal
or round or whatever, use the grinder -- we won't mind a bit. (Just
don’t let it get too hot below the slot.)
Do you sell other plane parts?
Just the blades and breakers, etc., that are here in the catalog.
For other parts, try Woodcraft
Supply or call Stanley at (800) 262-2161 ext:55839 and talk
to Lori.
Can I come visit?
Sure, but please call first to set up an appointment (707) 964-2782.
We're about 150 miles north of San Francisco on the Mendocino Coast
(map)and
just a few miles east of the San Andreas Fault (we laugh at danger.)
We're a gorgeous 3 1/2 hour drive from the Golden Gate Bridge if
you don't stop at too many wineries. While you're here be sure to
visit the College
of the Redwoods Fine Woodworking Program and if you have the
time, take a leisurely ride on the Skunk
Train and maybe a tour of the North
Coast Brewing Company. Need a room to sleep off all the wine
and beer? We've
got lots of them around here. I'll look forward to seeing you.
Back to HOCK TOOLS homepage.
©Ron Hock 2009
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