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Which HOCK blade do I need for my Block Plane?
Why are some HOCK Blades made in France?
Why are some blades black (dark gray) and some shiny?
How should I sharpen my blade?
Blades for my Jointer/Planer/etc?
What blade should I use to make a (smoother, jack, whatever) woody?
Why do you answer your own phone?
Why are HOCK blades shaped like that?
Do you sell other plane parts?
Our High Carbon Tool Steel is the finest-grained tool steel available and the finer the grain the sharper the edge. A2 is a newer alloy that will hold its edge longer; the alloying elements that increase edge retention form large, tough carbide particles during heat treatment. It’s a little harder to sharpen and bit more expensive but if edge life is paramount, you can’t go wrong with A2. But if ultimate sharpness and ease of sharpening are more important, high carbon steel will allow you the sharpest edge possible.
We offer four different block plane blades in two different
alloys. The first determinant is the blade width, either 1 3/8” or 1 5/8”.
The next is the width of the slot in the center of the blade. It will be either
about 7/16” wide or about 5/8” wide. Available in our High Carbon Steel (HC)
or Cryogenically Treated A2 Tool Steel.
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1-3/8” wide Blade |
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1-5/8” wide Blade |
Way back during the Clinton administration, we ran out of room in our small shop in the backyard. Rather than expanding our capacity here, I started shopping for job shops that could make our blades, to my exact specifications -- alloy, heat-treat, finish -- as well (or even, possibly, better) than we can ourselves. After a considerable search, I was contacted by a small, family-owned factory in France that makes industrial cutters and surgical blades. We established an excellent relationship that we enjoy to this day. They make a large portion of our production with the balance still being made right here in the backyard. Their quality is as good and (don't tell Larry I said this) sometimes better than what we can do here and I'm proud to have my name on these blades.
Why are some blades black (dark gray) and some shiny?
When we were making all of our blades here in our small backyard shop, they were all gray/black because we didn't grind them flat after heat treating. The gray/black is a very thin coating of iron oxide that forms during heat treatment. Several years ago, we started having some of our blades made by others (don't worry, the alloy and hardness specifications are the same); large shops that cut the blades with lasers and wet-grind them to thickness after heat treating. The thicknessing makes them nice and flat and shiny-bright.
We still make many of our products right here in the backyard shop (still mostly by Larry, even after all these years) and they're the ones now that are gray/black with our debossed logo.
I’ve put sharpening notes here and your blade will come wrapped in same (unless you buy it at one of our beloved retailers. Then, the package will have the most condensed sharpening instructions ever written.)
Maybe someday. Check back once in a while...
Send a sketch for a quote. It needn’t be a formal drawing but it must have all the pertinent dimensions clearly indicated. Be sure to include a phone number, etc. Be patient. And for the time being, we can only do custom work in High Carbon Tool Steel. (A2 batch size requirements prevent custom work in A2. Sorry.)
With so many different ones out there, we make these as custom items and will need a sketch to be sure to make the right one for your plane.
Nope. Only blades for the scraper planes.
The steels we use won’t stand the heat generated by power tools. This includes lathe tools (which really are power tools – think about it.) Hardness retention while at high temperature is why there are high-speed steels but we don’t need that quality so why pay more for what we don’t need?
See above about jointer blades. Lathe tools are power tools -- think about it.
I’ve always found all those designations to be a bit vague. Think about what you’ll be using your wooden plane for and use your considerable intellectual gifts to decide how wide the blade should be. Smoothing? Wider, like 2” (PI200). Jointing? Narrower, like 1-1/2” (PI150). All around handy plane? Our most popular blade is the 1-3/4” blade (PI175).
Because it rings. (And I’m often the only one here. We’re a much smaller operation than people realize.)
For the time being, we can only do custom work in High Carbon Tool Steel. A2 batch size requirements prevent custom work in A2. Sorry.
When we first started making small batches of blades for the Krenov shop, we just rounded the top corners off so they wouldn’t be sharp. As demand grew, we just kept on doing it the same way and it became a trademark. If you want the top to be trapezoidal or round or whatever, use the grinder -- we won't mind a bit. (Just don’t let it get too hot below the slot.)
Just the blades and breakers, etc., that are here in the catalog. For other parts, try Woodcraft Supply or call Stanley at (800) 262-2161 ext:55839 and talk to Lori.
Sure, but please call first to set up an appointment (707) 964-2782. We're about 150 miles north of San Francisco on the Mendocino Coast (map) and just a few miles east of the San Andreas Fault (we laugh at danger.) We're a gorgeous 3 1/2 hour drive from the Golden Gate Bridge if you don't stop at too many wineries. While you're here be sure to visit the College of the Redwoods Fine Woodworking Program and if you have the time, take a leisurely ride on the Skunk Train and maybe a tour of the North Coast Brewing Company. Need a room to sleep off all the wine and beer? We've got lots of them around here. I'll look forward to seeing you.
©Ron Hock 2007