Though many woodworkers find the sharpening process
a pleasant pre-work meditation, most of us would just as soon get
it out of the way and get busy woodworking. There is much more to
sharpening than I can cover here and I refer you to my book on the
subject: The Perfect Edge: the Ultimate
Guide to Sharpening for Woodworkers. What I offer here, in extremely
condensed form, are some ideas and methods to help make the task
Ron’s Very Brief Sharpening Notes:
First, The Goal: A sharp edge only exists where
two planes (i.e., the back and the bevel of a plane iron or chisel,
or the two bevels of a knife) meet with zero radius.
Of course, “zero radius” is a theoretical ideal that
eludes us as we move to the next, more powerful microscope.
There will always be some radius to an edge but The Goal is to
minimize it. (Our fine-grained steel helps you here; the hardened
particles in our steel are very small, allowing a smaller radius
to be sharpened.)
Next, Getting There: Any of the popular abrasive
devices can and will sharpen your blade. The choice is yours. The
venerable “Arkansas” oilstones are legendary and keep
their shape and flatness with little maintenance. These are a natural,
quarried product that will last a lifetime. Man-made waterstones
were more recently introduced from Japan, having a long history
there as a natural stone. These stones sharpen more quickly because
they are softer and thus wear faster, exposing fresh, sharp particles
as they wear. However, their softness requires they be flattened
often to avoid their tendency to “dish,” which makes
accurate blade flattening and honing impossible.
Many woodworkers use a series of sheets of sandpaper or honing
film as their abrasive medium. A piece of glass serves as a flat
base-plate and the sheets are simply switched as the blade is honed
through successively finer grits. The low start-up expense, ease
of use, and variety of grits (as fine as 0.3 micron) make this a
great way to get started. Then there are diamond stones, lapping
plates, ceramic stones, leather strops, and an overwhelming selection
of powered machines all designed to make this task easier. Whew!
If you have a method that you like, that works for you, stick with
it, use it. The following steps are mostly generic and you can follow
along regardless of your abrasive proclivity. If you’re new
here and “grit-less”, head to the store that sells automotive
paints and related supplies and buy a sheet or two each of 180-grit
(180X), 320X, 400X, 600X, 1200X, and 2000X. Some people use 3M’s
“#77” spray adhesive to stick down the sandpaper sheets;
they sell it where you buy the sandpaper. Or locate some pressure-sensitive-adhesive-
backed honing film in a similar variety of grits. Next, to the glass
shop for a piece of 1/4” glass to fit your abrasive sheets.
A marble floor tile or scrap piece of monument or countertop granite,
work well, too. Now go clear a spot on a workbench for the glass
or tile. With a new blade, start with the 600X or 15 micron paper.
If the back needs a lot of flattening, don’t be afraid to
use a coarser grit to save time. When re-sharpening a blade, if
the edge is chipped or horribly dull you may need to start coarser:
80 micron or 180X may be necessary.
Honing guides are useful things. If you have one,
now is a good time to use it. Most block and bench plane blades
are ground to 25° but some smart folks argue that there need
only be clearance under the heel of the bevel. In other words, since
the average bench plane blade is bedded at 45°, any bevel angle
10° or so less than that will provide the needed clearance.
And a thicker bevel is stronger so the edge should last longer.
Bench plane and block plane blades have traditionally been beveled
to 25°. Our blades for the handmade wooden planes were specified
by James Krenov to have a 30° bevel. Chisels get different bevel
angles for different tasks: 25° or lower for paring, 30°
or more for chopping. Experiment a bit with different angles to
see which one works best for the wood and your style of work. A
honing guide helps with all this by establishing an angle and sticking
to it. It can also shorten the whole process by letting you raise
the blade a degree or two so that you’re only honing the very
edge. The angle of the bevel is determined by how far the blade
sticks out of the honing guide.
At least one brand tells you right on it how far to extend the
blade for a 25° or 30° angle. If your honing guide doesn’t
tell you how far to extend the blade, you’ll have to experiment
and measure to get what you want.
No honing guide? That’s okay, but you’ll
have to exercise a bit more diligence and control while honing the
bevel. It is important that the bevel angle be maintained throughout
the sharpening process. If you rock the blade, the bevel will end
up convex — “roundish” — and the actual
angle at the sharp edge will be greater than you intended. Not the
end of the world, but it makes apples-to-apples comparisons between
woods, steels, tools and bevel angles impossible. You can cut an
angle template from a piece of cardboard or whatever and use that
to check the angle as you go.
Start by “grinding” the bevel until
a burr forms on the back. It may not be very visible,
and will get smaller as you move to finer abrasives, but the burr
will catch your fingernail. If the edge radius is large (which is
a fancy way of saying “if the edge is really dull”),
it may take a while before the burr will appear but it must be there
or you haven’t done enough work. It’s the burr that
tells us when the two planes have met (that zero radius thing again.)
Now flip the blade over to do the back. Flattening the back
is as important as honing the bevel. I repeat: Flattening
the back is as important as honing the bevel. Think about it: the
back of the blade is the cutting edge.
So you have to make the back flat to insure that the edge is straight,
smooth and sharp — without waves, valleys or “teeth.”
Many woodworkers believe that the whole back, from the edge to the
slot, should be flattened and honed. Others figure that a stripe
about an eighth of an inch back from the edge is sufficient since
the cap iron rarely exposes even that much. Your choice.
If you can leave the honing guide on the blade, just hang it over
the edge of the stone or plate. If it’s in the way, you’ll
have to measure and reset the blade extension from the guide each
time you change grits. Or just sharpen and polish the back then
start over to do the bevel. Start with the coarse abrasive you’ve
been using and rub the back using even, firm, down-pressure and
take even, steady strokes keeping the blade flat on the surface.
Do this until the new scratches uniformly cover the area you want
to hone. It’s quite common for a plane blade to have a slight
“hollow” in the back and the early honing will reveal
an arc of fresh metal along the edge and sides. You can expand this
area as far as you want until the whole back is covered with the
coarse scratches. When you’re down far enough, and the planar
surface of the back meets the planar surface of the bevel (zero-radius!)
you will raise a burr on the bevel side. You’re there.
Change to a finer grit and repeat the above process.
Once the back has been ground flat with the first grit, it gets
much easier and goes much faster. It’s a good idea to angle
the blade slightly while working on the back and to change the angle
with each successive grit. That way, you can readily see when you’ve
honed off all the scratches left by the previous grit; another clue
that it’s time to change to a finer grit.
Check the blade to be sure that it is staying square.
If it’s not, push a little harder on the high corner while
honing the bevel to bring it back square. Proceed through the grits
until you run out of them. After a few, the honed surfaces will
begin to act as mirrors; a sure sign of imminent sharpness.
For most efforts, the 2000X paper or 5 micron film is as fine as
you need to go. But if you’re doing the final planing on a
surface that you don’t want to degrade by sanding, you may
want to go beyond the 2000X paper to a 8000X waterstone or a strop
charged with chromium oxide compound (“green oxide”
or “knifemaker’s green”). The 8000X waterstone
cuts fast but can be tricky to use because the blade wants to stick
to the fine surface. Slow strokes, plenty of water and patience
are required. The strop can be leather, cardboard, or wood; a flat,
fine textured surface that will take the crayon-like super-fine
abrasive is what you want. It’s best to gently pull the blade
across the strop or you risk cutting into it. Be careful to keep
the back flat against the stone or strop and the bevel at the correct
angle; you don’t want to round off the edge.
To test for sharpness, you can always shave the
hairs on your arm (or wherever). A sharp edge will cut hairs with
very little pressure. But if you’re running low on hair (or
just hate that patchy look) there are other ways. A sharp edge will
catch on the flat of a fingernail or plastic pen barrel while a
dull edge will skid a bit. It’s really that simple; try it
a few times to feel it but it takes only the lightest touch and
if it skids, it’s dull.
Also, you can see if a blade is sharp. Closely examine the edge
with good light and if the edge reflects at all, it’s dull.
(Remember that zero-radius stuff? It’s the blade’s edge
radius that reflects light and if there is no radius — The
Goal — there will be no reflection.)
If you’ve just done a chisel, block-plane blade or other
cap iron-less blade, you’re done! But if you’re working
on a bench-plane iron, you’re not done until you’ve
polished the cap iron. Make sure the cap iron, when tightened in
position on the blade, makes complete contact along its edge with
no daylight showing; no gaps at all where a shaving could catch.
Now polish the cap iron ramp-surface. How much work is needed depends
greatly on its condition, of course, and how smooth is enough is
a matter of experience and performance. Use the same abrasives starting
no coarser than you must. Cap irons usually aren’t hardened
so the work should progress quickly. Rock and slide the cap iron
along the different grits until all coarse scratches are gone and
the ramp area looks and feels smooth. Now you’re done.
Resharpen often and lightly, no coarser than necessary,
to insure good cutting performance and save time in the long run.
Good luck, have fun, and… “Ommmm”
Ron Hock ©2012